Tag Archives: Horses


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I’ve seen alot of inquiries lately from people who are wondering what is that weird red spot on their horse’s sole?  And some showing red on the wall of the hoof.

Well, a red spot USUALLY means the horse has bruised his hoof somehow …

Stepped on a rock or some other hard object causing a bruise on its sole.

A hoof bruise isn’t too much different than you or I bruising.

A bruise can also occur if the horse hits something or something hits the outside wall of the hoof. Or, if there is damage to the laminae at the coronary band causing a bleed of some sort. These kinds of bruises will readily be apparent on white hooves.

So, what IS a bruise?

Basically, a bruise, also called a contusion, forms because the soft tissues of the foot have been damaged. Some hooves bruise easily, whereas others may have tougher soles that are better conditioned than others. When these soft tissues in the hoof are injured, small veins and capillaries (the tiniest blood vessels) break. Blood leaks out of the damaged vessels to form the ‘bruise’.

Sometimes, most times actually, the hoof, the body is able to metabolize the blood cells and no one is the wiser for it.

Other times, however, the bruise will be severe enough that the hoof will form a protective pocket around it and develop an abscess. In the photo above we see an abscess that has vented (finger pointing to vented abscess) as well as a bruise (blue arrow).

An abscess can cause a sound horse to become dreadfully lame overnight – seemingly without cause.  In fact, a horse that does go lame like that overnight is usually suspected of developing an abscess.

Contrary to much thought about horse shoes preventing such injuries, if the shoes do not also have pads to them then a horse can just as easily bruise its hooves when shod as when barefoot. You can see the bruising on either side of the frog in the photo of the shod horse above.

Barefooted horses, that are well conditioned to the environment, will grow thick calluses to protect the soles.  But they can still be injured, somehow, from a strike on the coronary band or hoof wall.

If the bruise is not severe and not causing any lameness then one can pretty much just let the horse go its own way. But, if the bruise is causing some discomfort, it can be indicative of an abscess brewing. The body may reabsorb it in short time or one may have to help the abscess develop fully to vent. Some veterinarians choose to knife out the abscess; I’ve found over the years that abscesses will vent themselves without surgical intervention with homeopathy, some essential oils and soaking – allowing the horse to move around as he or she wishes. Then, once the abscess has burst, appropriate care is given in the way of further soaking, possible poulticing and bandaging with either medication or essential oils and, again, a different homeopathic remedy than used for the un-vented abscess.

We all hate to see our horses in any sort of discomfort or downright pain. We all want to take that pain away. Sometimes that is necessary for treatment and other times its best to let nature take its course.

With barefooted horses, whose hooves are well callused and conditioned, it may take some time for a brewing abscess to fully develop and, as such, may need some intervention. But mainly, for a simple bruised sore or a bruised wall, just allow the horse to be a horse.

Horses and hooves are amazing self-healers. I think sometimes we humans like to micro-manage and cause MORE problems.

Oh, by the way, meant to mention, also … concerning the use of a NSAID for pain? If the horse has an abscess then the pain reliever is just not going to do anything much at all for the horse. The abscess will remain painful until it has burst and released the pressure inside the hoof capsule. It is the pressure that causes the pain.  That is another tell-tale sign that your horse’s bruise is developing into a full abscess.

Again, soaking in some epsom salt water or activated charcoal water will help soften the sole a bit. If the body is not going to reabsorb the bruise and abscess then the softened sole will allow its departure.

Many times, in addition to bruised soles and walls, bruising will become apparent around the white line after a laminitic attack or, even during, an active laminitic situation. This blood is evident in the white line as the bruise will ‘grow down’ with the hoof growth. The horse may never have even exhibited any sort of clinical symptoms, as is the case with the first stage of Laminitis – the Developmental Stage. The old bruise/blood in the white line, coupled with a few rings in the hoof that have ‘grown down’ the wall, tells of a laminitic episode that happened sortly before the observation. In an active phase of laminitis, Stage 2 or Stage 3 (Founder), there will be blood evident in the white line and rings will be still developing at the coronary band. This situation is far more dire than sole bruising or small abscess and MUST be taken care of quickly and correctly.

Bruising and abscessing don’t have to be major events when they are recognized for what they are and are treated appropriately.

If you’re not sure what is causing your horse’s lameness, or you’re not sure if you’re looking at a bruised sole or something else, always consult your veterinarian or hoofcare provider.

ANNOUNCEMENT!  … Join us on our new forum:  http://forum.scootboots.com !!!!  Brand new so let’s JUMP START IT and get it going!  🙂 


Gwenyth Browning Jones Santagate is the best-selling author of 10 Secrets to Healthy Hooves as well as a noted author for various international equine publications including The Horses Hoof, Equine Wellness, Natural Horse Planet as well as a contributing author for the 2001 United States Federal Mounted Border Patrol Training Manual. For the last 37+ years, she has maintained healthy hooves with natural trimming on thousands of horses and specialized in pathological rehabilitation hoofcare for the last 20 years. She and her husband John keep a small herd of their own equine in SW Florida and continue to offer consults for horses in need. You can email to Gwen — gwen.santagate@gmail.com or telephone in the US (23)-573-9687. For further information please click here:  www.thepenzancehorse.com/2012/RESUME.pdf


LIVE, ONLINE COURSE with Gwenyth Santagate begins Sept. 13, 2017. For more information and to register (limited reserved spots) go here:  http://www.integrativehorsecourses.com/online-classes.html



Your Horse’s HERB GARDEN

Growing your horses’ HERB GARDENS?  Awesome!

Planting and maintaining your own garden has many benefits; however, the dirt-stained hands you get from gardening are far from ideal. This easy-to-make Gardener’s Hand Soap exfoliates, cleanses, and moisturizes all in one use!


1/2 cup white sugar
3 tablespoons liquid castile soap
1 teaspoon almond oil
7 drops Clary Sage
5 drops of Melaleuca


  1. In a small bowl, add all ingredients and stir until smooth and combined.
  2. Pour into air-tight container and keep next to sink for easy use.
  3. To use, grab a handful of soap and scrub at your dirt-covered hands. After you’re done, your hands will be clean, soft, and exfoliated.


Join & Save for 25% OFF RETAIL PRICING! 

Feeding Your Horses Hooves

The natural horse that lives in the wild is a magnificent example of how nature truly takes care of its own. In this post we’re going to examine how the “natural” horse is hard-wired to stay healthy through diet …  Let’s take a close look at what kind of feed and nutrition is exampled by nature for Equus caballus –     Horses are designed to survive on forage.   What is forage? Grasses, seeds, roots, nuts, tree bark, leaves, cacti, flowers, herbs, weeds, and shrubs. Depending on where in t…    READ MORE

Aroma Touch for Horses

doterra-aromatouch-technique-kit-w-coconut-oil-new-sealed-free-shipping-7099b0ff081190de896d42f32953107bWell, people rave about Aroma Touch … they LOVE getting a good massage using several different doTERRA oils.

Guess what?

HORSES love it too!

If you have a horse that you think would enjoy a great, relaxing, refreshing and restorative light massage with oils that have all sorts of effective qualities (from relaxation to circulation to resolving the occasional inflammation from workouts etc.) … take a look at the oils that are used.


If you need help with the order in which to apply the oils or even someone to help you find the doTERRA OILS, talk to me!  I can help you get them at wholesale costs as well as help you find what YOUR horse might love the best!

Or, you can go directly to my online store and purchase the Aroma Therapy Kit or the singular oils and blends!

Just click here!  >> MY DOTERRA OILS


Feeding the Natural Horse



“FEEDING THE NATURAL HORSE” by Gwenyth Browning Jones Santagate, is now available for PRE-ORDERING.
Santagate is presently working on the book and plans to have it completed by the end of 2014. But you can PRE ORDER it in PDF FORMAT and as soon as it is completed it will be delivered to your in-box.


$15.00 USD
You will need ADOBE Acrobat Reader to view which you can download FOR FREE HERE:  http://get.adobe.com/reader/

Basic Diet for the Healthy Horse


3564 Andalusia Blvd▪ Cape Coral, FL 33909
gwen.santagate@gmail.com▪ 239-573-9687


Please note – this is for EDUCATIONAL purposes only and NOT to replace your veterinarian’s advice.

The ingredients listed are for the BASIC DIET for the HEALTHY HORSE … it is NOT inclusive of specific, dietary and nutritional needs for an unwell horse. Individual consult for such a situation for the unwell horses should be obtained.

Call (239)-573-9687 or email to: gwen.santagate@gmail.com for a full, private consultation from PENZANCE.

TO BE FED ONCE A DAY ONLY, any time … can be two or 3 times a week for the ‘easy keeper’ :


• FREE CHOICE 1ST CUT good quality HAY
• GRAZING as afforded on NON-ENHANCED pastures … an old field that is free of any chemical enhancements or herbicides with 100’s of weeds, flowers, shrubs, etc. is ideal
• FREE CHOICE Sea Salt or Himalayan Salt
• 2 oz. of RAW, CHELATED MINERALS a day.

• RAW, ORGANIC VEGETABLES, FRUITS, NUTS, SEEDS: (1/2 quantities for ponies)
o 1 Apple
o 1 Orange
o 1 Banana
o 2 Yams (otherwise called ‘sweet potatoes’ in many stores – they’re orange in color)
o 3 – 4 Carrots
o 1 cup of dried, organic, unsweetened coconut chips (www.nuts.com is a good source)
o Handful of sprouts (alfalfa, broccoli, mung bean, spinach, or any mixed sprouts)
o 2 Handfuls of Spring Greens OR Spinach OR Kale
o ¼ Coconut or Extra Virgin Olive Oil (or other COLD-PRESSED Organic Oil)
o Handful of Black Oil Sunflower Seeds
o Handful of Pumpkin Seeds
o Handful of Flax seed or Chia seed (Can be left whole; no need to grind)
o 2 oz. of RAW, CHELATED Minerals (Can be purchased from PENZANCE or other sources)
o Quick “Glug” of organic Apple Cider Vinegar
(with the “Mother” in it. BRAGG’S is a good brand)

Cut up the fruits and vegetables into bite-sized chunks with skin, peels and seeds but NO PITS. Mix with the seeds and oils and vinegars and ‘serve’.

A personal consult is strongly suggested for a horse with health issues as the ‘diet’ will differ from the base diet for a healthy horse. gwen.santagate@gmail.com or (239) 573-9687.

Raw, Chelated Minerals



Feeding horses doesn’t have to be a drawn out complicated task. Over 50 years of living with horses and caring for them has led me down paths about which I can’t even begin to tell you. I used to ‘believe’ in all the research for the best processed this or that or the other thing. I used to ‘believe’ in all the chemicals, the reports, the manufacturers’ golden words. I’ve thrown away more useless supplements that have cost me more thousands of dollars than I can even think of. Coat supplements, hoof supplements, calming supplements, breathing supplements, feed supplements, drugs for this or that – I’m sure if you have horses then you know about what I’m talking. Pages and pages and pages in catalogues from countless manufacturers all spouting their products are the best for horses.

And now I follow the K.I.S.S. routine  —  Raw forages, 24/7 Hay, Salt, Fresh Water 24/7 and raw, naturally chelated minerals.

Can’t fool Mother Nature! She knows best. And Mother Nature doesn’t supply processed feeds in 50# bags or artificial supplements in little plastic containers.

FEED THE HORSE LIKE A HORSE!  Horses are herbivores. They eat vegetation of all kinds and types – trees, bushes, grasses, herbs, flowers, weeds, leaves, nuts, seeds, roots and EACH variety of forage, EACH type of forage supplies its own natural nutrition to the horse. Chlorophyll, Vits A, B, C, D, trace minerals, proteins, oils and more.And horses EAT DIRT for its mineral content.

In todays world, however, our forages, even wild, are weak in nutrients simply because of what mankind has done in terms of using artificial herbicides, pesticides, fertilizers and more when growing crops. They are weak in nutrients because their own supply for growth, DIRT, is deficient in synergistic minerals.

In Nevada, however, there are mines that are pure and unadulterated by man other than to mine for the RAW, CHELATED MINERALS that they hold.  And these minerals are, simply, what NATURAL HORSE MINERALScontains.  Find out more about what these minerals are here:

What are chelated minerals? Chelation is the suspension of a mineral between two or more amino acids, or bonding to “small proteins”, peptides or amino acids. (“Chela” is Greek for “claw”.) Chelation substances can include things like amino acids, ascorbic acid and orotates, as well as hydrolyzed protein. Chelation improves the absorption of the mineral from the digestive tract.  Chelated Minerals are ORGANIC minerals.Inorganic minerals have to be ‘chelated’ before they can be utilized proficiently in the gut. Organic minerals, however, have been previously processed by plants or other marine life, thus ‘chelated’. Inorganic trace  minerals are in the raw, elemental or metallic state and, when ingested, cause absorption problems for the organism that has ingested them.

NATURAL HORSE MINERALS ARE CHELATED, RAW, ORGANIC MINERALS that are pure and mined from several mines in the heart of Nevada. Just what your or my horses would be eating if they lived free on the range out there along with their forage and natural salt.


  This photo show incredible changes to a horse with Lyme Disease, Founder, Pemphigus coronitis and Scratches in just 2 !! WEEKS of being fed Natural Horse Minerals:

10-8-2014 comparison

The chart below lists the minerals in NATURAL HORSE MINERALS: 

Aluminum Al Holmium Ho Rhodium Rh
Antimony Sb Hydrogen H Rubidium Rb
Arsenic As Indium In Ruthenium Ru
Barium Ba Iodine I Samarium Sm
Beryllium Be Iridium Ir Scandium Sc
Bismuth Bi Iron Fe Selenium Se
Boron B Lanthanum La Silicon Si
Bromine Br Lead Pb Silver Ag
Cadmium Cd Lithium Li Sodium Na
Calcium Ca Lutetium Lu Strontium Sr
Carbon C Manganese Mn Sulphur S
Cerium Ce Magnesium Mg Tantalum Ta
Cesium Cs Mercury Hg Tellurium Te
Chlorine Cl Molybdenum Mo Terbium Tb
Chromium Cr Neodymium Nd Thallium Tl
Cobalt Co Nickel Ni Thorium Th
Copper Cu Niobium Nb Thulium Tm
Dysprosium Dy Nitrogen N Tin Sn
Erbium Er Osmium Os Titanium Ti
Europium Eu Oxygen O Tungsten W
Fluorine F Palladium Pd Uranium U
Gadolinium Gd Phosphorus P Vanadium V
Gallium Ga Platinum Pt Ytterbium Yb
Germanium Ge Potassium K Yttrium Y
Gold Au Praseodymium Pr Zinc Zn
Hafnium Hf Rhenium Re Zirconium Zr

Here are a couple of links that will further explain the difference between ‘rocks’ and organic minerals (Natural Horse Minerals)



Are you convinced yet?  More specs … One 35# bucket of Natural Horse Minerals will last one horse about 9 months when administered at 2 oz. a day …
that’s just a little over .87 cents a day! 

One 15# bucket of Natural Horse Minerals will last one horse about 120 days when administered at 2 oz. a day. And that’s just a little over $1 a day! 

Remember what you read above?  The natural diet for the natural horse is SIMPLE — raw forages, 24/7 hay, MINERALS, salt and water. Oh, and I add Transfer Factor at the start of a new diet just to help keep the Immune System at peak, working order. Transfer Factor will increase the natural killer cells in the immune system by 238% – 437% … can’t get any more “peak” than that!The ongoing, healthy, natural diet will keep the domestic horse in the best condition possible!

It’s easy to order the NATURAL HORSE MINERALS … simply select your choice below:

(NOTE: 4# and 8# quantities are no longer available except by special request. Postal rates are prohibitive in shipping these smaller quantities.) 


naturalhorseminerals15# BUCKET ::  NATURAL HORSE MINERALS – $135 +S&H

120 days for 1 horse @ 2 oz. a day @ just a tad more than $1 a day.

naturalhorseminerals35# BUCKET :: NATURAL HOSE MINERALS – $235 +S&H

9 months for 1 horse @ 2 oz. a day @ just  .87 cents a day!

PLEASE CONTACT ME FOR SHIPPING COSTS.  Include your ZIP CODE to where the minerals are to be shipped.  You will receive invoice that includes your shipping & Handling costs.  Thank you!


For the natural forage DIET PLAN for the HEALTHY HORSE go here: Feeding Horses

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